Above the Queenstown waterfront.
Submitted by Joan Barnes
The Cook Strait separates the South and North Islands of New Zealand. The relics and remnants of wrecked ships that are housed in the Wellington Maritime Museum are testimony to how turbulent and treacherous it and the gigantic rocks on the shore can be for sailors. On the day we crossed in a large car ferry, the sea was calm and the three and a half hour trip went quickly as we talked with fellow passengers and watched the passing landscape of hills, cliffs and pastures.
When we docked at Picton on the South Island and started our climb up the hillside from the sea on the motorcycle, I thought the South Island was out to prove that she is prettier than the North Island. As I looked down on the inlet dotted with white sail boats on the calm, azure sea and the blue and white Blue Ridge Ferry heading back to Wellington and then at the green foliage marching down the hillside to the bay, I understood why people like the South Island so much.
The Maori people believe one of the early gods went fishing in the ‘canoe,’ or South Island. He caught a very large fish; the North Island. The North Island runs North and South with the Northern part the closest point to the Equator. It has no snow and very little, if any, frost. The South Island is farther away from the Equator and less tropical. It boasts the beautiful snow capped Southern Alps. Exploration ships to Antarctica depart from her Southern Shore. New Zealanders (locally called “kiwis”) believe the South Island is the prettiest due to its mountains and dramatic coast lines. I think the North Island also has special beauties.
From Picton we climbed, climbed through mountains, then raced down into valleys and climbed again. We went through Havelock, the mussel capital of the world, and chuckled at the oblong stones that ‘marched’ along the main street. They stood on thin metal “legs” and were painted green to resemble animated green lipped mussels.
We continued along coastal areas and through mountains until we crested a steep hill and saw the tiny village of Kariteriteri at the ocean’s edge on the valley floor below. There was a “natural” pool at our B&B. The water was filtered by water lilies, grasses and other plants rather than cleaned by chemicals. The same water was constantly re-circulated. It was a beautiful example of how dedicated the Kiwis are to conserving their environment.
The next morning, we rode through the small town of Murchison. We did a short tour of the Murchison Museum that was dedicated to the victims of various earthquakes. Most of the people were killed by falling rocks and some of the killer rocks were on display with their victims’ names carved on them.
The afternoon ride was glorious. We followed the Stony Creek Gorge down a canyon. The vegetation was lush and often concealed the white boulders and rocks that lined the creek. The occasional glimpses we got were breathtaking. The road was curvy and perfect for motorcycles. A biker described the road as a “Five Smiley” in a rating system of one smiley being okay and five smileys being nirvana.
Things got even better. The valley opened up and the creek became a large blue river lined by white stones. The roads remained hilly and curvy – a five smiley all right. As we rose out of the valley, we approached Panukiki where we were greeted by the ocean. This sea was active, alive and agile. It rushed to shore and crashed against gigantic rocks and boulders. Its blue waters churned and sprayed white plumes into the air. My finger was so exhausted from snapping so many pictures from the back of the bike.
That evening we could see the famous pancake rocks and blow holes from our balcony. Palms and other trees led down to the ocean from our room and their lushness added to a scene that defied adjectives. White mists rose over the stacked layers of black “pancake” rocks as blue waves crashed against them. White plumes “blew” skyward through holes in the rocks.
Just before sunrise the next morning, a Kiwi Bird (the national bird) walked across our balcony. Kiwis are nocturnal and rarely seen, so I took this as a good omen. Ely attempted to turn our overloaded bike around, but it decided to take off down the steep drive on its own with Ely somewhat on board. The hotel proprietor and I were able to throw our weight behind it and stop it just inches from a stone wall and a tree trunk. Maybe the Kiwi bird’s karma gave us strength and saved our deposit on the bike.
As we drove down the coast we were again mesmerized by the rugged, rocky coastline. After a long, wet ride of almost 300 kilometers, we were in the area of the Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers. Hikes to and plane rides over the glaciers were available. We spent the night in the small village of Fox Glacier. We learned that the proprietress had driven a long haul truck in the states for eight months and knew Georgia’s roads and cities. We found other New Zealanders who had toured the United States the same way, thus earning money while seeing our country.
She told us about nearby Matheson Lake. Its tannin waters provide a mirror for the surrounding countryside. She shared a picture with us of the lake that showed a perfect reflection of the surrounding mountains, including snow-capped Mt. Cook, trees and white clouds. I noticed that most bodies of water in the area had the same reflective quality.
Again we had mist and rain in the morning. Not far from Fox Glacier, we rounded a hill and dropped down to a valley floor and saw dolphins playing in Bruce Bay. We were the only witnesses to their frolicking and it was a delight to watch them. We forgot the cold and rain as we were warmed by the peace and tranquility of watching such beautiful creatures.
As usual, the weather soon improved and we had a spectacular ride along the glacier lakes, Hawea and Wanaka. The mountains surrounding us and the lakes had an almost spiritual grandeur. We seemed to be in their embrace as we rode along the curvy road between them and the lakes. Their hillsides were covered with yellow-green grass and white sheep. Black rocks that had tumbled down their sides glistened in the grass and sandy shoreline. I wondered how deep the base of these giants reached below that gray-blue, glacial water.
That night we stayed on top of a high, high hill in Queenstown. The views of the mountains: Coronet Peak, and the Remarkables, and the bay were fantastic. The flower gardens around our B&B would rival any in England or Europe. And, the cat, Gizmo, was the funniest looking creature I ever met. At 19 he had one remaining tooth protruding from his lower lip up to his smudged-in nose. His Persian long hair had been shaved into a lion “do.” He looked fierce but loved to climb onto laps and be petted.
A nearby ski lift carried adventurers to the top of the mountain. We watched from our balcony as they jumped with a guide off a platform with a parasail floating them down to a grassy field beneath our room. Queenstown is noted for its daredevil sports, like bungee-jumping, jet boating, white water rafting and rocket like plane rides. We stuck to enjoying the scenery and people.
We had dinner on the Queenstown Waterfront. The changing sunlight on the mountains beyond the bay, the vibrant green weeping willows on the public square, the blue waters of the inlet, and the people enjoying the adjacent park made a post card perfect scene.
The next morning, we awoke to pouring rain and howling winds. We waited for the storm to pass. And, the sun did appear for brief intervals, followed by more rain. By 10 a.m. we knew we had to leave regardless of the weather. We stacked on our five layers of clothing, loaded the motorcycle with luggage that seemed to just keep growing, and headed out of town in the cool, crisp morning air.
We inquired about an art gallery in Invercargill housed in an old bank building where Gwen Muno Henderson’s paintings were on exhibit. We were told it was not in Invercargill but in Tauperepere. Even though it added a couple of hours to our ride, we decided to go by there as we had so enjoyed meeting Gwen (the famous bike racer, Burt Munro’s daughter). That decision and other events made this day’s ride the most memorable of the trip and probably of our lives.
Find out why in the next segment, availiable in this week's print edition.
Pickens County Fire Chief, Bob Howard / Photo The upside down floor of this house trailer (center) was all that remained after the storm. See page 23A for more photos of the damage and cleanup.
In a final count, 121 residences were identified as damaged or destroyed by the tornado that hit April 27 in the Bryant Road-Childers Lane area of west Pickens County.
Of those homes, 23 are considered totally destroyed; 49 taking major damage (anything estimated at more than $10,000 to repair); the rest losing shingles, porches or suffering roof damage. Numbers could change slightly, depending on what insurance companies determine.
Pickens County Fire Chief Bob Howard said work done by county personnel, including building inspectors, who went door-to-door, found 75 percent of homeowners with damaged properties did not have insurance.
When building inspectors made their first damage reports at a meeting last Thursday, they noted in some cases the destruction was so severe they couldn’t tell what kind of house had been there before the tornado hit.
Captain Frank Reynolds of the Pickens County Sheriffs Office described the scene on Bryant Road early on the morning following the storm as “complete devastation.”
Damage came from a single EF-3 tornado, which arrived with the first storm band Wednesday. Three tornadoes crossed through Pickens County starting about 9 p.m. Wednesday, but only the first touched down here, according to storm experts.
The other two twisters that formed crossed through the county in the air. The storms here were part of a massive “mega storm” that killed more than 300 in the southeastern United States and destroyed whole communities in other areas. In Georgia the counties to the west of Pickens took the brunt of the storm.
Fire Chief Howard said a fly-over by helicopter in the area where the tornado touched down and beyond made it clear the storm that did damage here had created a line of destruction more than 20 miles long leading into the county. In places the twister cut a swath of downed trees and destroyed homes more than a half-mile wide, he said.
The destroying storm lifted up while still west of Jerusalem Church Road and crossed out of the county in the air but touched down again in other Georgia counties to the east and created more damage in North Carolina.
Crystal Buckingham displaying her leadership skills through her work with Pickens Family Partners.
Youth volunteers are a growing trend. Youth provide enthusiasm, energy and excitement for projects when asked to provide leadership for community endeavors. In turn, the youth are able to develop valuable life skills including planning, conducting, implementing and evaluating projects. In some community projects, youth may discover future career avenues and gain experience in these fields.
Recently Crystal Buckingham, 9th grader at Pickens High School, traveled to the University of Georgia to compete for recognition in the area of community service. Georgia 4-H has a program called Leadership in Action that recognizes the work that Junior and Senior 4-H’ers do as leaders in their communities.
The purpose of the program is to motivate and encourage youth to become active and engaged in local issues and initiatives. Pickens County is part of the Northeast District which had the more teen leaders in grades 9-12 participating in this competition than any other district in Georgia. Projects ranged from acts of kindness to our military, animal rescue, and teaching elementary school children in after school programs all involving hundreds of volunteer hours.
Students had to complete a typed record of their project in the form of answers to open ended questions and support it with pictures and newspaper articles. After submission of their written work, 4-H’ers had to travel to the University of Georgia for an interview with judges. Crystal completed a detailed record of her work with Pickens Family Partners, the Appalachian Judicial Circuit and her after school club called Clover Buddies.
All of these combined helped her to become victorious as one of the two representatives chosen to represent the Northeast district at the state level in the summer. To discover more about Crystal’s project you can look at her Web site: projectthanks.yolasite.com
Allen Wigington, center, is sworn in as the Chief Magistrate Judge by Probate Judge Rodney Gibson as his wife, Rosie, holds the Bible.
Allen Wigington, who has served as both sheriff’s deputy and magistrate here, was sworn in as Pickens County’s Chief Magistrate Judge in front of a full courtroom on Wednesday, April 27.
Wigington will fill the unexpired term of former chief magistrate, Larry Ray, that term ending December 31, 2012.
Ray retired on April 25 of this year following his 65th birthday. He served 20 years as chief magistrate judge in Pickens County.
The chief magistrate judge is an elected position, but in the event the office is left vacant, Superior Court judges from the district appoint a replacement.
Board member Mark Dickerson presenting the history and accomplishments of the past 20 years.
By Vered Kleinberger
The Mountain Conservation Trust of Georgia (MCTGA) hosted its 6th Annual Spring Celebration this past Saturday, April 30. Members enjoyed a beautiful sunny day on the shores of Grandview Lake, feasted on delicious food and reconnected with friends and neighbors.
MCTGA is commemorating its 20th anniversary this year, so the Spring Celebration provided the perfect atmosphere for continuing the festivities. Board Chairman Roger Schultz welcomed the crowd of members and guests and thanked the Grandview community for their efforts in making the Celebration a success.
Longtime MCTGA member and current Board member Mark Dickerson presented the history and accomplishments of the past 20 years. The trust had humble beginnings....a group of residents who were concerned with preserving the beautiful places in our region began meeting and discussing available options. Burnt Mountain was in danger of being logged, which would have been unsightly, but would also negatively impact water quality and wildlife corridors. They were successful in conserving this property, which is now known as the Burnt Mountain Preserve. This led to the formation of the Oglethorpe Wilderness Land Trust, later to be renamed the Mountain Conservation Trust of Georgia. To date, more than 2,000 acres have been preserved in North Georgia through the efforts of the dedicated Board and staff of MCTGA. For a comprehensive history of MCTGA, please see their most recent newsletter, available on their Web site, www.mctga.org.